Poonawatta Estate

In 1880, on a 1.8ha patch of stony dirt just north of the township of Eden Valley, a block of Shiraz was established by the pioneers of this cool-climate wine-growing region. Eighty-six years later, when the parents of present owner Andrew Holt bought the property, the vineyard was a mess, suffering from years of neglect. During the long process of restoration, the strongest canes available from the 1880 block were dug into the stony soil to create another 1.8ha block.

Today, The Cuttings, and The 1880 are the cornerstones of the Holt family's amazing "love project", which also happens to be Australia's seventh oldest vineyard. And the years of back-breaking work is paying off, with stellar reviews from Australian and international wine critics. Words such as "brilliant", "breathtaking" and "superb" are now used regularly to describe Poonawatta's hand-crafted offerings.

Along with the reds, the Poonawatta range includes a floral and beautifully balanced Eden Valley Riesling and, for those with a sweeter tooth, the Golden Eden Ratafia Riesling - a luscious wine that shows an abundance of fresh varietal fruit.

Water supply remains a constant issue though for Andrew and his wife Michelle, who spend almost every spare minute in the vineyard. Their dam is often empty, although you get the feeling the Holts are the type of people who thrive on adversity - just like their cherished 1880 vines. - John Lehmann

Andrew Holt