Purple Palate

The obsession among the Soul Growers winemakers with traditional Barossa wines has reached something of a nexus with the Cellar Dweller. Made in honour of the long-lived 1950's Cabernets from the Valley, this is, as declared, a wine to bring out of the cellar when the children (and maybe the children's children) are all grown up. The 2009 is made in a structured, brooding style, cautiously vinified with a mind to preserving the certain complexities deep in its pith. In its youth it effuses notes of ripe, sticky blackberry fruit. The varietal leafiness of Cabernet is well restrained, rather hinted at by fresh forest aromas, menthol and aniseed tones. The finish is long and tight, with firm tannins and hints of fresh leather to round it out. -NT