Purple Palate

David Franz's foray into sourcing premium Adeliade Hill fruit for cooler climate wines has been taken to a new level with the Brother's Ilk, a Chardonnay from the Birdwood sub-region. The Bernard 76 and 95 clones have thrived here, producing delicate, mineral fruit that is racy, themed with white-peach notes, and entirely drinkable in its youth. As it turns out, Barossa-boy Franz is no one-trick pony. This is a sophisticated, modern Chardonnay of genuine balance and poise, with a certain 'fluffyness' typical of the benchmark wines of the Adelaide Hills. Not surprisingly, it has been met with high praise, and is in sadly short supply.-NT.