Marco Cirillo recently visited Bar Barossa to showcase his Cirillo Estate 1850 Old Vine Grenache in a vertical covering all vintages from
2003-06. To give participants an idea of the inspiration for his stylistic take on the variety, Marco also poured some Châteauneuf-du-Papes from the south east of France, including a 2006 Château Rayas, considered to be the pinnacle of Grenache based wines throughout the world.
The evening began with the 2009 Cirillo Rosé and Semillon, both exhibiting crisp, dry characters and superb acidity which made them the perfect match to gun chef JJ.Smith’s canapés. Then it was onto the reds, and the Cirillos, whilst being illuminated by their more expensive French counterparts, shined brightly. From the delicate 2003 through to the richer expression generated by the 2005 vintage & the exquisite balance of the 2006, all of the 1850 Old Vines wines displayed the same soft, layered depth that characterised the much sought after Châteauneuf-du-Papes.
Marco hand prunes all 5500 vines in his 1850 vineyard. At about 12 minutes per vine, that’s over 1000 hours work. “I aim to make Grenache that tastes like Grenache, not like Shiraz,” Cirillo said, and it was this that clearly set his wines apart from sweeter and more confected Barossa versions. Low on oak and structured by integrated acidity, these wines were crafted to live at least 20 years. Whilst the Rayas was impressive, at around $400, the wisdom of purchasing it when one could start a vertical of eight Cirillo 1850 Old Vines for the same price was seriously questioned. Most left the event with an increased appreciation of Australian Grenache and a renewed enthusiasm for Australian wine. -Jeremy Pringle